After I have a solid initial layer on everything, It’s time to correct and refine anything that needs it, and start glazing. for this piece I’m glazing with Liquin, mixed with various amounts of pigment. I’ll start with darks, gradually pushing my values to where they need to be. i’m using similar colors to what I used in the foundation, but generally much more colorful/saturated. for example, by slowly building up that shadow by her right eye [below] with more crimson and purple shades, the final result is a very warm but still dark area…and the lack of actual black or brown pigments prevents it from becoming too muddy.
glazing goes pretty fast, but the glaze does have to dry between each pass. the glazed darks on the face below were done in multiple layers (3-5) over a few days. also, whenever I glaze, I use a dry brush to blend the edges of the glazed area into the already dry paint. and unlike the foundation, I don’t want brush strokes in my glazing, so I use very soft brushes (generally black or red sable) to lay them in.
Here [above] is a good example of how I start glazing my lights, before I work the edges with a dry brush. as with darks, I find I get much better results if I gradually reach the values I need through repeated glazes, rather than try and get there in one pass. a lot of this has to do with the aforementioned brush stroke issue, if the glaze is more opaque, it’s much harder to make it look like a glaze (a subtle color variation), and not a sloppy thin layer of paint. It also yields a much richer result.
there is some progression of glazes [above] I promise, a couple of days worth. I make sure never to glaze lights with too much white, even in the harshest highlighted areas, as I find it kind of screws up the temperature and can make things unintentionally cool (with the exception of the black painted areas which reflect a much cooler light).
i’m almost finished with the glazing [above], and while the figure looks close to where I want it, the background is looking a little too flat — so I re-painted it. I was looking for a more uniform look at the top of the piece, and a more layered look for the bottom where the figure degrades into the background to give the whole thing a little more depth. It’s lost a bit in these pictures (as usual), but I think the change, though subtle, makes a big difference.
almost done, final pictures in the next post!




8 Responses to Step by Step 2010 – glazing and more
Aaron, I’m new to oil painting and haven’t had any training and i’m not real sure on the concept of glazing. Could you give a little more information of what glazing is and how to accomplish this.
hey Zach. glazing is basically using a medium (I use Liquin) with various amounts of color mixed in, applied as a tint on top of existing paint. It’s a way to gradually change tone/color/value without masking the layers of paint underneath (the ratio of paint to medium determines how transparent a glaze is). that help?
yeah thanks a lot. That’s great
i didn’t know you could do that. Sounds awesome. I’ll try that.
Love these step by steps. It’s great to see processes behind artwork that my own work is influenced by. I was hoping to learn a bit about the different mediums you use. I’ll generally lay out a wash similar to the one you have used on this particular painting (for simialr reasons as well – it is much easier to work on something that is NOT blinding white).
I suppose I am more interested in whether you make use of any thinning/thickening agents. My work tends to be considerably looser than yours so my paint tends to stay fairly thick in places, however I have never had the budget for playing around with different mediums. Any suggestions for achieving interesting textures while maintaining a recognizable and organic figure?
(I hope that “question” made at least a little sense? Cheers.)
Hey Patrick, thanks for your comments, I really appreciate it. I don’t typically use a lot of medium when I paint, although I hope to experiment more in the future. generally I stick to Walnut Alkyd and Liquin. Walnut Alkyd is similar to Linseed Oil in that it thins paint and speeds up drying time. Liquin I use for glazes or for areas that I need to oil out (ie. bring sunken areas back). Used sparingly, they both make paint a little more pliable and give you a lot more control, without greatly affecting the look. I haven’t used any thickening agents that I particularly like although I recently bought some Zec that I’ve been meaning to play with. hope that help!
Really excellent flesh painting- love your work. Its cool to read this blog by someone who I think I paint similarly to, only not as well. Thanks a lot for putting it up!
hello hello! I just wanted to leave a quick thanks for these step by steps, especially this one on glazing, the whole glazing process was a bit of a mystery to me for a while, but with your help, I’m getting a better hang of it. Your work is one of the main reasons i started painting, so thank you again, and I hope to see more soon, and that one day i can paint a face a beautifully as you can
stephanie, so happy they help. thank you!